Jul 4, 2013 - Floating, duo-cone, cone, metal face, toric ring, all names used to describe a. Installation tools are available, I'm pretty certain a Cat store can. Cat® Seals Information, Installation Tool. Seal Group Size Options. Installation Tools for Duo-Cone Seals. Duo-Cone Seals Installation. Vx 354 programming software. Heavy Duty Dual Face Seals Installation. Cat Seals Catalogue. Visit the Dealer Locator for the name of the Cat.

Floating, duo-cone, cone, metal face, toric ring, all names used to describe a very old seal design used primarily in undercarriage components, finals drives, and rollers. Recently a thread asked how to properly install floating seals. Installation tools are available, I'm pretty certain a Cat store can supply the tool, but in a pinch you can still achieve a proper install with some simple materials. A floating seal assembly consists of two matching seal halves. Each seal half has two components, 1) the white iron (cast iron) seal ring which has a precision ground surface that mates with the other half to form a rotating seal, and 2) the toric ring which is the rubber elastomer (think bohunkin o-ring) that provides both the tension to force the two seal halves together and provides the external seal. When installing a floating seal it's imperitive that the toric ring is not twisted, is not rolled up the ramps of either the seal ring or ramps of the housing ring it fits in, and is uniform in installed depth, no spots where toric is installed deeper than other spots.

First thing to do is clean the housing ring that the toric ring presses into. Use only a soft wire brush on a die grinder, do not use any form of abrasive tool. As far as the housing goes, it's useable as long as the outer lip which holds the toric ring in place is still good, and as long as the ramps aren't deeply pitted, defaced, or worn. A little bit of imperfection of the ramp is tollerable as the toric ring is under a lot of pressure which will make a seal, but you at least need a good smooth surface for a good seal. Now prepare the floating seal for install. Always work with seal on a clean cloth and keep work equipment and area as clean and dirt/dust free as possible.

Find some automotive type insulated wire that will fit snug in the groove between the toric ring and the underside of the seal ring face. I happened to find some 12 GA insulated wire that worked perfect. It can't be a loose fit or it will allow the toric ring to walk up the ramp of the seal ring, and it can't be too tight or it will push the toric off of the seal ring, you just need a good snug fit. Work the wire around the circumference of the seal, just be careful with your fingers around the steel seal surface.

Although the edge of the seal ring isn't sharp as a knife, it's plenty sharp enough to put a nasty cut on a fingertip. Then join some zip ties together and gently zip them down centered on the wire to hold wire in place. You don't have to pull them excessively tight, just snug enough to hold wire in the groove. Although it's recommended to install the seal dry, no oil or grease on the surfaces, installing the seal dry creates a lot of friction working against you.

I typically use spray silicone lubricant as it leaves a dry lubricating film. Others use lubricants such as WD-40 as it's a thin film lube that evaporates the liquid as well, and even dry talcum powder will do the trick. Flip the seal ring over so the toric ring is on top, spray the toric ring and the housing ring that the seal fits into with the spray silicone. Place the seal squarely on the housing, use gentle even pushing pressure, pushing seal straight into the housing. After enough pressure is applied it will pop in place. Once seal has popped in, remove the zip ties and the electrical wire. Keep in mind we're doing this by hand, chances are when toric ring popped in that the seal isn't perfectly aligned with the housing.